🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.